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Ammo Box DIY no weld Gasifier

Ok Guys!! Im working on a new DIY gasifier anyone can build with some basic skills. This will be constructed out of Ammo boxes and a 5 gallon steel pail. You will need to cut some steel to create some internal shielding and a grate. Other than that you will need to drill some holes and use hole saw for your port openings. Everything will be bolt together.

I will start a series on this build starting this weekend if not sooner!!

23 comments

23 Comments

jsmhheli

Jul 29, 2022

I’m struggling to get my ammo can build to flare. I’m trying with store Bought lumb charcoal just to try to get build up and running. sorry for poor quality video. any suggestions on what Iv done wrong or doing. any suggestions?

thanks

jsmhheli

Jul 29, 2022

Replying to

Thank you for the help. appreciate all the info. I enjoy all your content and info you a sharing with everyone

Thrivenrg

Jul 29, 2022

Replying to

Also did you break the fuel up into small pieces. It wont work unless you size the fuel. You need 1/2" pieces in this gasifier for it to work. You also need to screen all the small fines and dust out.

newageautotechnologyllc

Aug 06, 2022

Replying to

Your own charcoal little chunks 3/4" . You can get them from your camp fire or a retort but that's a nether

Thrivenrg

Feb 12, 2022

Yeah that would probably work. You want 4 to 6 inches between your grate and the jet on this size gasifier. Larger you would increase this distance. You only need a few inches under the grate just enough to allow the gas through un restricted.

LowAndSlow

Feb 12, 2022

I was able to find some 6” channel that I think will work for the heat shielding and grate support as well as drilling holes in a flat piece for the grate. What height should the grate be if the nozzle is 6” from the bottom? Do I also need shielding for the sides below the grate? I’m thinking I could use the side that will be cut off from the top of the channel. Otherwise there’s not much of a gap between them.

LowAndSlow

Dec 04, 2021

Have you tried using an 81 mm ammo can? It looks like they’re slightly taller (22” vs 19”) but much heavier (20 lbs vs 8.5 lbs) which I took to mean thicker walls. They also have some external reinforcement that should stiffen the walls up. I was hoping not to need the heat shields if the walls are thicker, just something like angle to support the grate.

For the grate, would a floor register work? I do not have much experience with fabrication so am trying to figure out what I can use off the shelf. Otherwise I’m planning to use expanded metal.

Looking forward to actually trying gasification after lots of reading over the last few months. Planning to start with a 4375W HF generator with the 212cc Predator engine.

Thrivenrg

Dec 04, 2021

Replying to

Yes you could use the larger can. It would work better and the lid would not get as hot as this smaller version. You must heat shield the internals with heavy thick metal. This sheet metal will not hold up to the extreme temps. The reaction zone can achieve steel melting point, so must shield this. It is not hard just cut some metal with a grinder. Expanded metal will work if its a heavy guage the floor register will most likely be destroyed in less than a few minutes.

Thrivenrg

Dec 04, 2021

Replying to

Something you may try in placement of the grate is to line the bottom with Lava rocks. This should provide support for the fuel while allow the gas to flow out. But you will need to dump the machine out and clean accumulated dust out after a few uses. .

Thrivenrg

May 16, 2021

Its up to you, I generally use 1 inch NPT for most small engines. Your valve just needs to either match the gas hose diameter or at least be more than half of the diameter. 3/4 of the gas hose diameter is probably best, This will give you the range you need plus it will be easier to fine tune the mixture.

teo_dk

May 16, 2021

Replying to

Great, thank you. I will go with the 3/4 then if it is better for fine tuning.

teo_dk

May 16, 2021

What is the size of the air/fuel mixture valve? 1" or larger?

Thrivenrg

May 11, 2021

Should work fine if anything it will help the lid stay cooler if the can is taller. I would have used the taller one but I wanted to make it as compact as possible. Warning though do not run engines any larger than 212 cc. This size is already at the limits of what the thin metals can handle.

Thrivenrg

May 16, 2021

Replying to

@teo_dk Stay away from inverter generators for this. A gasifier does not like change. Its best to use just a normal generator with a fixed RPM. There are no advantages of using an inverter generator for this. Use the generator for battery charging and not anything else. Fully load it and put the power into battery storage. When you have a system like that then you are no longer limited by the low energy density of wood gas as you have power stored to get the job done and can way more power from your storage system.

I recommend the Amteck blowers, They are very powerful and you need a powerful blower for this for fast start ups and getting a good strong flare going for easy engine starting. Get a router speed control so you can slow it down. However when we team multiple units the blower runs at full speed to start all gasifiers in the team. Yes it is by design and this blower is the only cost effective blower on market that can hold up to a woodgas system.

teo_dk

May 16, 2021

Replying to

@Thrivenrg That makes a lot of sense. I can see the need for fixed rpm and I had started to understand that a direct power usage isn't the way to go. Battery will make more efficient use of the generated power. Essentially this is sun shine when the sun isn't shining - if you also have a PV system. I will follow your recommendation for the blower, thank you.

voss

Jun 25, 2022

Replying to

So a log splitter with a 208mm Briggs engine should work? I just ordered some 60 and 120mm cans to work with. I already produce much pecan lump charcoal from trees that need to come down from a storm. The idea of powering the log splitter from charcoal is really cool.

teo_dk

May 11, 2021

What negative consequences, if any, do you see from using at 120mm ammo can instead? Base dimensions are the same as the 60mm, it's just much taller. I understand the internal gas pipe will have to be longer. Obviously the goal is more fuel. Do you think the fuel would pack/lock?

It might be difficult to reach in there to do the work towards the bottom

Thrivenrg

Mar 27, 2021

Here are online sources for the 60mm and 120mm ammo cans.

https://www.amazon.com/Surplus-U-S-Military-Waterproof-PA-124/dp/B081WZP3M7/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1M6EBBRECWTRU&dchild=1&keywords=60mm+ammo+can&qid=1616859952&sprefix=60+mm+ammo+%2Caps%2C246&sr=8-5

https://www.amazon.com/81-MM-Ammo-Can-Grade/dp/B00A9TER9M/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1M6EBBRECWTRU&dchild=1&keywords=60mm+ammo+can&qid=1616860030&sprefix=60+mm+ammo+%2Caps%2C246&sr=8-2

https://www.sportsmansguide.com/product/index/us-military-surplus-pa70-60mm-ammo-can-used?a=2073641

https://www.cleanammocans.com/pa-124-ba45-60mm-ammo-can.html

https://www.ebay.com/p/1820567831

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=60+mm+ammo+can&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fp%2F1820567831

Thrivenrg

Mar 25, 2021

Alright first and second segments of the video tutorials are complete. This is the basic build construction and conversion of the 60mm ammo box along with adding on the water drip tank. I go over how Im building a new jet system as well that has not been tried before. Im editing video now and those will be up as soon as I get the editing done and uploaded to Youtube.

Next will be to build the filters, start up blower and mixer valve.